Realistically switch choice should have governed the choice of switch plate and PCB, and in the next build it may, but for the first build I wanted something familiar. With the components ready to go, it was time to build the board. Look no further! A build isn’t complete without a key mapping. They top a great build! 1.1 Summary of this Manual 2.0 IRIS Kit describes the contents of the IRIS kit and how to install the necessary drivers and software 3.0 Conduct a 3-D Measurement walks through the steps of setting up an IRIS kit and conducting a I only have a week to build this board and any related components, such as firmware. Vortex in a glamour shot. I’d like to thank the folks at laserboost and Signature Plastics for their advice and help choosing switch plates and keycaps. Finally the micro-controllers were soldered onto the new headers. Luckily the burn isn’t too visible. This build guide is exclusively for Rev. After arrival and installation I discovered an unfortunate feature of the Pro micro: the weak soldering on the USB header. LEDs (optional), 2x3x4mm or 1.8mmare okay 9. 4.) Next I had to prepare the through-hole diodes and resistors to solder to the board. I’m not a fan of either of them for different reasons. That is, using spare Arm powered micro-controllers, custom wiring, custom cut cases, and bespoke firmware. Admittedly I could have spent more time considering the ergonomic, stylistic, and practical matters but I’m leaving that to further work. This will help with accessing these symbols as unicode, for which support is increasing. At this point it’s day 5 of the build and the end is in sight! For those who might be interested doing a build themselves, keebio provides a thorough Build Guide. At this point in the build process I did some research to get an idea of how mechanical keyboards work, and consider which components would be best for me. I had never lacquered anything before, let alone a copper surface that is very sensitive to patina. Before fitting the full set, I quickly assembled the other switch plate to see if it had the same problem, luckily it didn’t. Just solder in your switches and you're done! Luckily no switches were broken which is a relief as I only have 2 to spare. I'm checking the solder job on a reset switch that came with the board and notice it's a little dry. I’ll cover my aims (and constraints) for the build, followed by a build log, before finishing with some comments and further work. Next I tested that each of the switches worked as expected, I used a multi-meter to measure the current across them. I also could not run make keebio/iris/rev2:default:avrdude to flash the default key-mappings onto the micro-controllers as this required a two-stage reset and fiddling with the dodgy Caterina bootloader. Clickly blue switches have a bump and a moving jacket that makes the click. The result was a bubbly and inconsistent finish. Here's an inventory of what I bought during the build process: pdf. I went with Zealios v2 67g as they are known for the tactile bump at the top of the switch, the solid design, and MX compatibility with the other components. Ideally the PCB would support 3-pin LEDs to vary the colour as needed but that wasn’t supported in the rev 2. I’m excited to begin building the Iris, and I anticipate it should go pretty quickly. Linear red switches have neither and simply slide. Iris Rev. If you’re reading this and you know of copper tents like these then please let me know! The switches supported through-hole LEDs which needed to be mounted and soldered in the same way as the resistors. Please consult the README guides for each firmware for specific instructions on how to use and compile it. Finished Iris Split Mechanical Keyboard build with a brushed copper plate, Zealios v2 67g, Iris Rev2 PCBs, and green LEDs to give a Copper Oxide effect without the rust. It's a sandwich-style case with cutouts to accomodate the USB jack and the TRRS jack. In these cases it's good to add more solder if you can. Iris kit with Kailh low-profile switches and keycaps. To lacquer untreated Copper you need the following: I had one of these to begin with. First I tested that the LEDs, the micro-controller, and the switches operated as expected. At this point the remaining tasks were to solder on the last components and test that the keyboard worked. Placing the resistors in the correct spots. Next you must apply the lacquer consistently across the plates, making sure the plates are flat so the lacquer doesn’t travel to one side. While I loved some features of both, I decided for various reasons that neither quite suited my needs. I’m at that stage of my career where I’m starting to optimise my work-flow so I can focus on the tasks that need the real attention. For firmware I went with the Quantum Mechanical Keyboard (QMK) firmware due to its ubiquity, ease of use, and time constraints on this project. Lacquer the unfinished copper on the switch plate. My colleague Alastair wrote a great blog about his split build: he designed his split board to sit on top of his MacBook Pro. Total key count: 54 3646×2247 iris keyboard [image source reddit] Where to Buy. The rest of the components include: a silver TRRS cable with silver sheaf, Pro Micro (and now an elite C) micro-controllers, green 1.8mm LEDs, resistors for the LEDs and switches, diodes, nickel plated M2 stand-offs, and a strip of green LEDs for under glow. I couldn’t test the actual functionality at this point until everything else was done, which is annoying but unavoidable. This guide can also be used for the Nyquist Rev. This seems like a general solution to the fixed-point problem and there are several builds out there that do this well. In my previous post I decided I would build a new split keyboard, and explored the Iris. For those who might be interested doing a build themselves, keebio provides a thorough Build Guide. Instead I went for the Iris which struck a sweet spot between utility and size as well as having fashionable designs around. Case for each side of an Iris Keyboard kit (built/tested with v2.6 PCBs) Features a thick integrated switch plate and a base that provides a 6 deg incline. I’d like a keyboard that can do this without hindering my flow. Other than that, the keyboard works like a charm! Deviating from the typical code-centric post, I wanted to share my latest keyboard build. An alternative was the Helidox design which solved this problem, however I was not keen on the exposed boards on top. Here is the final result, equipped with Kailh speed silver switches and DSA keycaps. I’m not sold on the idea of using green LEDs to give an ‘oxidation effect’ as it contrasts too heavily with the copper, silver, and brass parts. Keeb offer multiple kinds of PCB but their most recent incarnation, the Rev 3, was the only one in circulation. After futile efforts to recover the micro-controller, I ordered an Elite-C from SpaceCat design. When choosing a split I had plenty of choice including the Ergodox, Iris, Let’s Split, Helix and more. Jekyll, with the Folio Theme from JekyllThemes.io and is hosted on Github. Despite this, I believe the build was a success by virtue of the fact the board is at work and ready to go; I just need to spend a lunchtime replacing the broken controller. The working right side with one dead diode, I was able to replace the other one. I assumed all parts would be provided, but some parts were not: I missed the reset button and two four-pin headers for the OLED screens. They start out slow, focusing on each column and finger, and build up to complete sentences and paragraphs. The process followed roughly the following steps: Each of the following subsections cover these. The choice of PCB informed the rest of the design and in particular the switch plate. Solder the resistors, TRRS jack, and diodes onto the PCBs. There’s not much to it, to be honest, but I typed up a few things that found about my experience. Can you figure out why this one is so hard to replace? However you choose to play Isis, The SMITEFire community will help you craft the best build for the S7 meta and your chosen game mode. Welcome to NS Iris! knowledge of the materials you are working with including metal lacquer. I simply tested that the LEDs turned on. 3/4 This is a guide to most, if not all, of the random questions new players will have when they first join Iris! Iris build pics. I spend a lot of time at my desk typing on a fixed board and so I’d like to mitigate the long-term effects of RSI. As is self-evident by the title I settled on an Iris split keyboard with a brushed copper switch plate, Zealios v2 67g tactile switches, and DSA profile PBT plastic keycaps in an off-white/grey. QMK. My custom switch plates have arrived for my mech build, thanks @LaserBoost! Combined with green LEDs the goal is to give a copper patina look but without the patina. 3, as it has a very similar construction. I would learn more about the fundamental components of firmware and driver get to design a board from the ground up. As for user testing and firmware, I may write another post in the future. The build guide on the keeb.io website is a great resource and covers pretty much everything you need to know. I ran a small local GB from the australian keyboard discord server in May 2018 which went fairly smoothly. Instead I aim to build a board which is essentially cut in half so I can adjust the angle of use as much as I need. Iris build pics. I wanted something tactile but I’m not a fan of Cherry MX browns (it feels like standing on slugs) and I use MX clears in the vortex. Below is the current iteration of layer definitions, using QMK firmware. Another important consideration is how many keys I use on a daily basis. To lacquer Copper you must first clean off any dust or dirt using something that doesn’t leave a residue like Isapropyl Alcohol. That is, It doesn’t have arbitrary macros that can invoke arbitrary programs, with arbitrary symbols bound to keys, and an arbitrary number of layers I can switch out as needed. These are my supplemental pictures and notes to that. A couple people (literally two, haha) asked to see my Iris build log. I followed the build guide on the keeb.io website when assembling the keyboard. At the end of 2017, Eric of Aeboards asked me for a simple iris case. I’ve been using a Vortex Race 3 as my daily driver which partially bridges the gap with programmable macros, bindable keys, and stock layouts that make typing more efficient; however it is not fully reprogrammable to the n-th degree. The last main component was the key caps, I chose to go with DSA profile dye-sublimated keycaps from signature plastics. I also soldered on the micro-controller headers at this point. Case pieces. As an engineer I make use of many special characters and short-cuts, however none of these are supported by larger full-size (100%) boards by default. A Newbie's Guide to NS Iris Online Are you completely new? I wasn’t a fan of this design as it already had many of the components pre-soldered on. USB-C Cable 7. Then the waiting game begins as you must keep an eye on this to ensure no dirt settles on the sticky surface, and reapply a new coating every 15 minutes or so. A clean dust free area with plenty of ventilation. After assembly and screwing on the acrylic base the build was done! I didn’t take comprehensive photos, because tbh I was mainly spending my brainwaves making sure I didn’t screw something up, ha! Iris Keyboard Case. Post with 3476 views. Lost in what to do next? This was noticeable when mounting the micro-controllers above LED solder points as I had to solder this whilst keeping the mount straight at a fixed height. All of these models are fixed, and so the next logical step is to consider split keyboards. The result was barely worth the effort but I have received compliments about the professional quality of the finish, despite the patina on the undersides of the plates. It is the Iris from keebio. I had some trouble with this due to some avrdude related issues using an incompatible version of gcc to compile the key-mappings. Solder the LEDs and micro controllers onto the PCBs. Includes PCB and various components 2x Pro Micros TRRS Cable PRINTING: Print the bases upside down and turn on supports (supported bridges as well if needed) so that the cutouts for your ProMicro and TRRS jacks … Now is a good place to note that as these boards were B-stock one came pre-soldered with a few reset switches, MOSFETs and other components (probably for testing). This isn’t a deep clack either, but rather rounded with accentuated highs. In order to maximise the ergonomic utility of this board I would like to add copper tents (like laser ninja’s) to the board so I can vary the angle of the board; ideally to an arbitrary degree but more realistically at fixed heights by screwing into the M2 fittings. With the holiday season bringing many discounts on electronics, it is the best time to build your own custom PC. It was at this point that I realised not only that I had soldered the headers on the wrong way round, but also that I didn’t have enough clearance between the micro-controller and the acrylic base. This suggests I may prefer I mid-sized board with a higher number of modifiers and layers within range of the home row. Rotary encoders and knobs(optional) Recently I wanted to change up my keyboard situation because I wasn’t entirely happy with my current ones. PARTS: Iris PCB kit. They’re not necessary, but nice to have. Feel free to email me if you have any questions using [email protected], This site was built using A build isn’t complete without a key mapping. My key switches for my custom mech build have arrived, thanks @ZealPC! So some of the components such as the PCB will likely come pre-made to make this build possible. This caught 2 dud LEDs and no dead switches however 2 LEDs broke later in the build sometime between soldering and testing the boards. Additionally I never installed the LED under glow strip and I’m debating whether the build really needs it. I went with an open-side design and an acrylic base for the board so I could show off the circuitry underneath. Varmilo VA108M RGBY 108 Key Mechanical Keyboard with Cherry MX Brown switches $ 155.00 $ 145.00; Sale! A build guide for compiling and customizing your firmware is best found in the repo’s readme If I were to work with untreated metals again, I would ensure they are treated professionally before use. Gifs sourced. I played it safe and emulated the vortex colour scheme of off-white and grey caps (GEK and GKK). Do not leave it 24 hours to re-apply in hot conditions as this will cause the lacquer to flake off, and you do not want to have to clean it off! The last of the switches, it's looking good! Backlight LEDs are mounted reversed to create a cold white underglow. At this point I used a heat gun to remove the headers and fit some smaller ones which ruined the finish in the process. *Please note that the Iris 2 keyboard will turn yellow in response to notes you play on your MIDI keyboard. Right half PCB Items needed for Build: 1. Additionally there are plenty of Iris build guides, which is valuable given the time constraints of this build (here, here, here). The (almost) finished Iris keyboard and a Logitech M570 trackball mouse. Note: This is an edit of the original middle layer stl from the keeb.io's iris git hub. Here's my build log for it. Lastly I soldered on the rest of the switches. I’ve seen the effects of long term cramping over a career and I aim to avoid the same result. In this blog I’ll talk about my experience building my first mechanical keyboard. This ranges from using vim macros to handy scripts, however standard keyboards are incompatible with these kinds of tricks as it still requires as much work to invoke them. I opted to use Mill-Max Ultra-Low Profile Sockets for the Pro Micro, which I bought from r/mechmarketsome time ago. The base is finished but there is more work to be done! Iris Split Mechanical Keyboard Build A blog about my experience building my first split mechanical keyboard. 3 & 4 of the Iris, which features pre-soldered components. On one hand I wanted something practical with no flex, but on the other hand it had to look nice (as all custom boards must!). This took multiple attempts to get right, and multiple experiments to find the best way to prepare the copper. If I make another keyboard I may build it from the ground up. In particular the other board has SMD diodes and a MOSFET on which meant I doubled up on my order of diodes! I’d like to thank Alastair Reid for his tips and discussions about keyboard builds over lunch in the early phases, and the many RSI jokes made in the office! 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